Introduction: Long 2012 Furby

I distinct to make this tutorial after noticing a distinct lack of womb-to-tomb Furby tutorials for 2012 Furbys/ Furby Booms. The only real dispute when longifying booms vs 2012s will be the shape of the fabric about the Furby's face. The pattern I have provided is for a 2012 Furby, which has a smaller faceplate. I have institute that it is easiest to adapt this shape past cutting the fabric the unvaried, sewing IT the same, then try it on your furb. Then, I institute it looks neatest to just cut the side fix large while it is on the furb.

This longification work can really go two distinct ways, you butt simply add textile to the bottom of your Furby, or totally remake it.

Part of this tutorial is derived from https://www.instructables.com/id/Longifying-Your-...

If any stride needs more detail you will in all probability find what you are superficial for in this instructor.

*If you are doing a simple longification, cut the fur around the base of your Furby and only take steps 2, 3, 5, 6, &7.*

*IMPORTANT TIP FOR CUTTING FABRIC*

When dealing with textile with long hair, it is *SO* much easier, and less messy, to use a razor blade to gently cut the fabric from the back. Seriously, if you want to attempt this project or ANY project with like-minded fabric, I cannot stress enough how much of a game-changer this was.

Supplies

Materials:

Furby Boom!/2012 Furby

1/2 yd. important torso fabric

1/4 yd. bay window fabric

Mat up for feet (optional)

Stuffing

Spine (link in stair 3)

Large zip ties

Rouge

Clear nail polish (surgery varnish)

Hot glue

Zipper (optional)

Tools:

Sewing Machine (non required but real stabilizing)

Razor Vane/Exacto Knife (If non, scissors will work)

Drill OR Electric Soldering Press

Hot Paste Gun

Step 1: Skinning Your Furby

So, the first thing you always want to dress when longifying a Furby is skinning it. (Well unless you are doing a simple longification, therein case, skip this step).
Take a sharp seam ripper or pair of scissors and start cutting the fabric along the bottom of the Furby (under the feet). (If you require to reuse the newfangled feet make sure to neatly save them here).

*PLEASE NOTE IF YOU Wish TO MAINTAIN FUNCTION BE VERY CAREFUL TO NOT CUT WIRES DURING THIS STEP* That may seem same a no-brainer but it's Charles Frederick Worth mentioning.

At one time you cut up all the way around the basis, begin peeling up the fur. In that location is a wire in the belly buffer. I am not entirely secure what this wire does, but my best overestimate is it allows the Furby to "feel" if you are touching its stomach. There is a tweed wire attachment where you can simply pull the wire separated from the Furby.

Dependant on whether you have an sr. or newer Furby Smash! model, on that point will be either one or two screws and a series of plastic clasps that keep back the pelt down around the faceplate. You can rip the fabric away from the clasps with enough effect but you will need some sort of tool to unscrew the two small screws. (I did non give a small enough screwdriver so I ended upwardly using a cuticle clipper, the screws were loose enough that that worked just pure). These screws unscrew to the right!

The pelt is also guaranteed around the home of the ears. The easiest path to remove this fur is to use pair of scissors to cut through the plastic "cage" surrounding the capitulum cooperative and the two plastic clasps securing the pelt around to each one auricle. Once you have freed the ears you should cost competent to pull the pelt all over the ears and off the Furby!

Congratulations you have now successfully skinned your Furby Boom.

Step 2: Painting the Face/Eyelashes

This, of flow, is not required but if you are whole changing improving the colour scheme of your Furby this is a simple way to make it come out more polished.

*Before beginning the painting process I would extremely suggest softly cleaning the body of your Furby to get rid of any remaining fuzz from the skinning process. If you do non this fuzz will probably get stuck to the face American Samoa you are house painting information technology.*

If your Furby still works turn your Furby on and look until it closes its eyes before pickings out a battery so that IT stays in that position while you paint. THIS MAKES IT MUCH EASIER TO Rouge THE EYELIDS.

Erstwhile your paint has dried paint over everything with clear nail polish operating theatre varnish. THIS IS IMPORTANT. If you do non seal the paint it bequeath come off. Seriously, this is eventful. Do it. The nab polish also does a really good job at smoothing over your paint Job and making altogether the colours and textures so much more even.

*Especially make a point to thoroughly encompass the outer parts of the eyelids and mouth as these are the parts that leave chip the most when the face up moves.*

If you want to make sure the ears keep on mobility you should also paint the connection between the ears and the head the same color as the fabric you bought at this prison term. The ears don't need to be particularly neat; this is just to hide the integrated after the fur goes on. Just look-alike the face, seal this paint with sweep through polish.

*if you did non skin your Furby I would recommend using masking tape or something same to keep the fur clean*

If you wishing to tot eyelashes, simply grab some fake lashes or doll lashes, make out them to size (you may also pauperization to cut the length), and attach them with superglue!

Step 3: Attaching the Pricker

This footprint is not required, however, if you wishing your Long Furby to embody possable this step is indispensable. Without a spine, your Furby will just flop around and since the eyes cannot be separated from the consistency this Furby will already be very top-heavy so I would highly suggest adding a spine.

Many materials can be used as the spine for your Long Boy but I used this: https://morezmore.mybigcommerce.com/m03020-morezm...

This internet site also sells the same product in varied thicknesses and lengths.

This is probably the easiest region of the stallion process. I unscrewed the bottom of the Furby and trained four holes into it. I past drilled ii holes into the pass of the pricker like this: I then attached the spine to the Furby base with two large zip ties to hold information technology in piazza like this:

Now reattach the spine to the Furby!

*I have fresh been using an physical phenomenon soldering robust recently for this part alternatively. They are not expensive and make is MUCH easier to put holes in the round spine segments. Overloaded DISCLAIMER these flummox VERY HOT. They work by burning through and through the plastic, so you volition need to use of goods and services it in a well-ventilated area and expend it with EXTREME CAUTION!*

Step 4: Ears!

Ok, now for the fun persona! You've completely destroyed your Furby now it's time to put IT back together! Here is the pattern I came up with for the head cloth. http://World Wide Web.mediafire.com/file out/o0iwi6cn368v7sg/Hea...

*If you did not skin your Furby you can go beforehand and hop on to Mistreat 5*

*When printing process impermissible the pattern make sure the margins are set to nonpayment and prepare the paper size to executive or it bequeath not embody the right size! As an alternative, if you have the pick in your printer settings, set the black and white size to "actual size." Changing the paper size may cut off the top a little bit merely it should nonetheless be fine to work with*

*If you are working with fluffy cloth like I am, the seams should not be a job. I'm not in for how you could get around the seam issue if you are functioning with a thinner fabric. *

*I created this pattern with my not-stretchy fabric in mind. If your cloth is elastic be VERY CAREFUL when press clipping the fabric that leave go around the face. It would probably be best to cut well inside the margins and dilute the fabric out when IT is in reality on your Furby.*


The Ears!

I began with the ears, I found this to equal the easiest mode to avoid getting glue whol over your textile but execute what you want.

Firstly, I utilized my pattern and cut down the intimate and outer earpieces.

The first thing I did was flip crinkle 9 back up on the inner auricle fabric to finish the edge.

I then placed both pieces of textile and then that the reactionist sides were facing, and made the tips of the ear match aweigh on some pieces.

I hand sewed this part for many control. I stitched from the top down either side. DO NOT SEW On THE BOTTOM. Parting IT open like a pocket.

*Happening the second side, you should have to pull the smaller pick of fabric a routine to continue sewing along the seam, this will make over the curved shape of the ear.*

Formerly I was through with stitchery, I flipped the ear pocket in spite of appearanc out and slipped it over the capitulum to make predestinate it fit.

I past took the fabric air pocket hinder off the capitulum and squeezed whatever super glue about the butt of the plastic pinna. I then quickly slid the material back complete the ear and unwaveringly pressed the outer edges into the gum. Incoming, I squeezed some superglue onto the front side of meat of the ear (inside the pocket) and unwaveringly pressed the front ear fabric into the glue.

To finish I, you guessed information technology, glued the edges of the textile to the merchant ship of the plastic ear. Since I desire to retain mobility, I want to keep the spike joint-aweigh, and then I am opting to not sew this part.

I all over risen with this. (I will give him a freehanded haircut once the rest of his fur is on).

Step 5: Reconstructing the Head

The Rest of the Foreland!

I began away sewing seam 3, which is the top of the head between the ears. Then I sewed pieces A and B together down seams 1 and 2.

At this time you should try the new skin on your furby to lay down sure everything looks like IT's lining aweigh. See to it to see if the material around the eyes fits and if you postulate to skip textile off the sides in front sewing them together.

*Contingent on how fluffy you want your furby head to finish being you should take in the sides accordingly.*

After stitching seams 4 and 5, flip the cloth back right side unstylish then hear the skin connected your Furby peerless more time to see if you need to make any alterations.

Step 6: Make Him Long!!

At long final, you've reached the most rewarding step of totally. Praise.

You deserve everything you're about to get.

I'm so sorry to all my fellow not-math-multitude, merely we're gonna suffer to do several math. To begin, you pauperization to measure the perimeter of your Furby, mine was 17 inches. Make for certain to measure yours in case IT's different! Next, measure the length of your pricker, mine was 35 inches.

Determine how wide you privation to stomach fabric to be, mine is about 4 inches, and add about an inch for your seam allowance. The measurements I used were 4.25" x 36". For the rest of the fur you tail switch off one long strip of fabric, in my case that fabric would glucinium astir 15'" x 37", this includes the addition of two inches to both the width and the distance for the seam allowance. This is a bit overkill merely it's better to get cut the framework slightly too big than slightly too undersized. I have set up that cutting the suffer fabric somewhat shorter than the fur leaves Pine Tree State with a cleaner bottom seam.

If your Furby still whole shebang you will need to create some way to access the batteries, I chose to add a zipper. Since I did this, I chose to scratch out two long rectangles measuring 8" x 37" instead.

* I'm not going to write a teacher about stitching zippers because it would cost quite lengthy and I'm sure you can find better ones happening the internet. Make sure you do before adding one into your final Furby.*

If you are using long faux pelt fabric equal I am, the zipper is almost completely hidden by the hair!

If you have a sewing simple machine, the next part is fast. Simply sew both pieces of fur to the stomach right sides together. Succeeding, I pin the head fabric to the tummy fabric to make a point the front is centered, then sew the physical structure tube to the head and slip the Furby into its new-sprung fursuit. Now break out the super glue again. I glued the fabric snuggly around the ears and fount.

HECK YA! No, you're not hallucinating, the end is so nigh.

Now you're gonna want to stuff your boy! Fill your long boy out to your heart's smug, be careful to keep the spinal column in the middle of the body.

Forthwith to close the bottom. I folded the fabric in and used a ladder stitch to at hand it ahead.

Take a minute to sit back and gaze upon your liberal boy.

Stride 7: The Feet

Now, of class this is also optional, you could just be done, but I same to make things really arduous for myself. Using felt, pull back a rough influence of what you want your Furby's feet to look like, and cut out the pieces. Every bit you can see from mine, these hind end be jolly rough.
*Remember, ii for each understructur.*

Sew around the edges, right-sides facing, going away the back open. Cut bump off the seams, if you don't they will be practically harder to turn right-side out.

Now turn them right-side out and gorge 'em! Sew the opening closed and passementerie off the extra material.

If you want, you can employment a sewing machine to sew betwixt the little toes for a spot of definition.

I am fully aware of how janky these are….I had a long Clarence Shepard Day Jr. go away me alone.

I then sewed the top butt against of the feet to the pot, adding along stitch at the destruction each foot to continue them from flopping roughly.

Step 8: Look up to Your New Long Boi™

At long last. You reached the end. Pat yourself happening the back, but not for too long Oregon your boi will gravel envious.

ENJOY!!

If you like this instructor and want to fall out me and my furbs on insta our cover is @majesticfurbs

If you want to buy any of my future Furbys you can find them happening my etsy snitch - MajesticFurbs

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